Overview
This Kathmandu Valley rim hike follows the hills around the north and east of the valley for three days on foot, ending at one of Nepal's oldest temples. You climb from Sundarijal through Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park to the ridge village of Chisapani at 2,215 m, then walk the long ridge east to Nagarkot at 2,175 m. After sunrise at Nagarkot you walk mostly downhill through Telkot to Changu Narayan, a World Heritage temple and old Newari village, and spend the night there. On the fourth morning you drive back to Kathmandu. It suits fit walkers who want a short trek with real variety, from forest and farming villages to Himalayan views and fifth-century stone carving.
The itinerary
- Pickup from your hotel and drive to Sundarijal on the north-east edge of the valley
- Climb through Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park forest past the village of Mulkharka
- Cross the wooded pass at Borlang Bhanjyang and drop to Chisapani at 2,215 m, 4 to 6 hours in all
- Evening view of the Langtang and Ganesh Himal ranges if the sky is clear, overnight in Chisapani
- Morning mountain view from the Chisapani ridge
- About seven hours east along the rim through villages, forest and terraced fields
- Lunch on the trail around Chauki Bhanjyang or Jhule
- Arrive Nagarkot at 2,175 m in the late afternoon, overnight in Nagarkot
- Sunrise over the Himalaya from Nagarkot before breakfast
- Walk mostly downhill for 3 to 4 hours through Tusal and Telkot villages
- Afternoon at Changu Narayan temple, with its fifth-century inscription and stone carvings
- Overnight in Changu Narayan village
- Early visit to the temple courtyard while it is quiet
- Walk through the old Newari village lanes around the temple
- Drive west to Kathmandu, about 12 km away
- Back at your hotel by late morning
Things to carry
- Broken-in walking shoes or light boots
- Daypack with rain cover
- Warm fleece or down jacket for early mornings
- Head torch
- Refillable water bottle
Good to know
Complete guide
The Kathmandu Valley rim hike is a proper multi-day walk around the valley itself: three days on foot along its northern and eastern hills, then a short drive home. It gives you forest, village trails, two Himalayan viewpoints and a World Heritage temple, and you never go high enough for altitude to be a concern.
What the Kathmandu Valley rim hike covers
Day one climbs from Sundarijal through Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park, past Mulkharka and over a wooded pass at Borlang Bhanjyang, to Chisapani at 2,215 m. Most people take four to six hours. Day two is the long one, about seven hours east along the ridge through farming villages to Nagarkot at 2,175 m. Day three starts with sunrise and then drops, mostly downhill, for three to four hours through Tusal and Telkot to Changu Narayan, where you spend the night. On day four you see the temple early and drive the 12 km back to Kathmandu.
If you have less time, our 2-day Chisapani to Nagarkot hike covers the first two walking days, and the Changu Narayan to Nagarkot day hike covers the last stretch in the other direction. This route joins them into one continuous walk, with nights in each place.
Three walking days, three different characters
The first day is forest. You climb steadily on stone steps and trail under oak, pine and rhododendron, and Chisapani comes as a ridge-top clearing with a view north. The second day is ridge and farmland, a long, varied walk past terraced fields and small villages, with lunch near Chauki Bhanjyang or Jhule. The third day is the easiest: a gentle descent from Nagarkot through Telkot, with the valley opening up in front of you and the temple roofs of Changu Narayan at the end.
Nagarkot sunrise and Changu Narayan
Nagarkot is known for its sunrise. On a clear morning the view runs from the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges in the west, past Ganesh Himal, Langtang and Jugal, to the Everest range far to the east. We will be honest: the view depends on clear air, and even in autumn a hazy morning happens.
Changu Narayan is one of the seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site and one of the oldest Hindu temples in Nepal. It is dedicated to Vishnu and holds one of the earliest inscriptions in the valley, from the fifth century. The temple courtyard is full of stone and wood carving, and the village around it is a traditional Newari settlement. Staying the night means you see it in the evening and early morning, when day visitors have not yet arrived.
Who it suits, permits and season
This hike suits regular walkers who want a short trek with variety and no altitude. It also works well as a shake-down before a longer trek such as Langtang or Everest, since three days in a row is a fair test of your legs and shoes. It is not a good fit if you rarely walk, because day two is long; your guide can arrange a vehicle for part of it if needed.
You need a Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park entry ticket for day one, which we arrange at the gate, and Changu Narayan charges foreign visitors a heritage entry fee. No trekking permit is needed. September to May is the season; June to August brings heavy rain, slippery trails and few mountain views. Mornings on the ridge are cold for much of the year, so pack a warm layer. Tell us your dates and how much you usually walk, and we will tell you honestly whether the full rim or a shorter piece of it suits you.
